The chef finally lives up to the promise he showed as Thomas

admin on 17 de Abril de 2015

Fine dining is alive and well in NYC

Case in point: chef Jonathan goose outlet canada Benno’s namesake new, luxurious Mediterranean restaurant in the Evelyn Hotel (7 E. 27th St.). Besides great food, it has grace notes that are supposedly as dated as “Mad Men” canada goose uk outlet era pheasant under glass: great food, comfort, gracious service, beautiful surroundings and a tolerable noise level. Benno has been packed since it opened in November, well before it earned a rave review in the New York canada goose Canada Goose Parka outlet sale Times last canada goose factory outlet week.The chef finally lives up to the promise he showed as Thomas Keller’s chef de cuisine at Per Se, where clarity of presentation and flavor distinction ruled but vanished in his baroque and fussy Italian efforts canada goose at Lincoln. Benno’s French Italian menu is prix fixe only ($94), and dishes are not revolutionary, but magnificently executed. Coddled egg and Spanish tinted Elysian Farms lamb with merguez and vegetables merely taste as wonderful as they look.Unlike at idiot oriented “scene” spots, Benno’s waitstaff don’t utter inanities like, “How are those first bites treating you?” They don’t harangue canada goose clearance us about “people hanging around too long eating,” as my friends canada goose outlet jackets suffered this week at graceless scenester favorite La Pecora Bianca in Midtown (where the hostess tried to chase them out 15 minutes earlier than a two hour house rule).Benno appears destined for a long, prosperous future. canada Canada Goose sale goose outlet shop Yet when the Times awarded it three stars last week, it sounded apologetic about doing so. Canada Goose Coats On Sale The headline called the place “proudly out of step with the age.”What “age” are they talking about? Fine dining’s thriving by just canadian goose jacket about any definition and kicking the butt cheap canada goose canada goose outlet in usa of goofy kitchen experimentation, communal tables and excruciating noise. canada goose black friday sale So are Marea, Del Posto, Gotham Bar Grill, Lafayette, Carbone, The NoMad, Eleven Madison Park, Il Gattopardo, Tamarind, Dawat, Union Square Cafe, The Modern, Gabriel Kreuther, La Grenouille, and just about every steakhouse in town.The fine dining field is not shrinking but growing. Some of the most popular places opened within the past three canada canada goose factory sale goose outlet canada years and quickly filled up like Le Coucou, the Grill, canada goose outlet online uk the Pool, Avra Madison, Temple Court, Majorelle, Flora Bar and newly launched Leonti on the Upper West Side.Yet many, if not most of the places that blogs and Instagrammers favor appeal to customers more interested in style than in substance: hard edged pizza, taco and noodle joints that look like, and are run like, kindergarten classrooms.GrubStreet canada goose outlet stated in 2016 canada goose outlet that a Times review which downgraded Per Se from four stars to two was “Another Nail in the Coffin canada goose outlet nyc of Fine Dining.”Guess what? It’s hard to get a reservation at Per Se. Let’s hope that restaurateurs won’t put more stock in hype than in the evidence of fine dining rooms without an empty seat to spare.

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